Gems, gems, gems
All you need to know about gemstones
Precious vs semi-precious
Nowadays we don't tend to refer to gemstones in this way as much as we have seen throughout history, and "precious" tends to be used as marketing shorthand or to describe very rare types of gemstone.
The term "precious gemstone" stems from medieval Europe and during the Renaissance, when only four gems - diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald - were considered worthy of royalty. They were prized for their beauty, extreme hardness, rarity in known mines, and the lore surrounding them (e.g. emeralds’ supposed powers of foresight).
| Precious Gemstone | Key Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Diamond | Exceptional hardness (10 / 10 on Mohs), unmatched brilliance |
| Ruby | Rich red “pigeon’s blood” color, hardness 9 |
| Sapphire | Typically deep blue (but all colors), hardness 9 |
| Emerald |
Vivid green, often included (internal fissures), hardness 7.5 |
This legacy naming convention has continued into today, with only those 4 varieties technically categorised as "precious". All other gemstones are considered to be "semi-precious" - of which there are hundreds! The most commonly seen in jewellery tend to be:
| Gemstone | Family/Species | Mohs Hardness | Notes on Rarity | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Amethyst | Quartz | 7 | Very common; high clarity stones more prized | |
| Aquamarine | Beryl | 7.5–8 | Large, deeply blue crystals scarce | |
| Tourmaline | Multiple species | 7–7.5 | Paraíba (electric blue) extremely rare | |
| Tsavorite | Garnet family | 7–7.5 | Discovered 1960s; few deposits exist | |
| Tanzanite | Zoisite | 6–7 | Only mined in Tanzania, 1967–present | |
| Opal | Hydrated silica | 5.5–6.5 | Black opal from Lightning Ridge is among the rarest | |
| Spinel | Spinel family | 8 | Often mistaken for ruby; Kashmir red spinels are ultra-rare | |
| Topaz | Silicate | 8 | Imperial topaz (orange-pink) scarce; most topaz is pale |
Rarity of gemstones
There are a variety of factors that can influence the rarity, and therefore market value, of gemstones.
Geological Occurrence
- Common: Quartz varieties (amethyst, citrine) are widespread.
- Rare: Red beryl (bixbite) and Colombian trapiche emeralds form in only a handful of locales.
Colour Saturation & Clarity
- Pure, intense hues command premiums (e.g. “pigeon’s blood” rubies).
- Stones with fewer inclusions (internal flaws) are more sought-after - even emeralds, which normally contain inclusions, fetch top prices when exceptionally clear.
Size (Carat Weight)
- Larger crystals are exponentially rarer. A 5ct sapphire of top colour can be worth far more per carat than a 1ct of the same quality.
Cut & Treatment
- Expert cutting maximises brilliance and colour.
- Untreated stones (no heat, irradiation, or oiling) are rarer and carry a price premium.
Market & Fashion Trends
- Rarity in the earth doesn’t always equal rarity in demand. For instance, tanzanite is geographically limited (found only in Tanzania), but since its discovery in the 1960s, popularity has driven prices sharply.
